maura_icons

Thu, 07 Apr 2005 05:02:59 GMT

Thu, 07 Apr 2005 00:21:03 GMT

I've finished updating the resources. I may do some more organizing, but for the most part they are finished. If you go there now, you'll find sections dedicate to brushes, textures, and gradients with a different artists listed and links directly to pages where you can download these resouces so you don't have to spend time hunting around for it. There's still a section of artists who I owe credit, but can't find resources for so i'll continue looking. The last section is the one I want to organize a little better, but not today.

New icons

Tue, 05 Apr 2005 02:28:44 GMT

Here are some new icons.

[x] Ayumi Hamasaki
[x] Destiny's Child
[x] Emilie de Ravin
[x] Harry Potter
[x] Kelly Clarkson
[x] The Lord of the Rings
[x] Sailor Moon

Examples:

1. Comment
2. Credit
3. No hotlinking
4. Enjoy :)

Icons are working again thought they've been moved around a bit. I also seem to have lost one.

1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
7. 8. 9.
10. 11. 12.
13 14.
15. 16. 17.

Sun, 27 Mar 2005 00:22:07 GMT

I am currently in the process of revamping my resources page so if you look at it and it's all wonked out that's the reason why. But hopefully when I'm done all of my resources will be seperated into categories, and if you're lucky there will be direct links to the pages where you can download the brushes/gradients/textures/whatever so you don't have to hunt around.

Sat, 26 Mar 2005 22:58:22 GMT

This DayQuill for Flu sutff is worth its weight in gold!

Wed, 23 Mar 2005 22:57:37 GMT

Here are two tutorials showing you how to blend pictures using gradients and using the feather command. Designed using Adobe Photoshop CS. Image heavy.

I'm going to show you a method to mask a picture to get one picture to blend into another using gradients. Here's the two pictures I want to blend together:

When you put your two pictures into a single window together, you want one of the pictures to generously overlap the other. I just created a new image the same height as the two pictures I used, and the wdith a little bigger than the width of either picure, then I pasted both pictures into the window.

Click on the layer of the top picture, the one overlapping the other, then click on the quick mask button. Now select the Gradient tool. Set the foreground and background color to black and white, then select the foreground/background gradient from the gradient menu. The gradient type selected should be the linear gradient type.

Now you want to make your gradient. You want the white part of the gradient to cover the image on top, the active layer. Here's what my gradient looked like (note: This isn't how it will look in quick mask mode; I'm just showing you how it would look as a regular gradient to give you an idea of where the white, black, and the transition should go.). The transition from white to black of the gradient should go over the overlapping part of the picture to blend it out. I really hope this makes sense.

Here's what my layers palette looks like now.

And here's now my image looks now with the gradient applied while in quick mask mode:

If you find that you can see the edge of the picture below is showing, undo the gradient and try again until you get it just right, or you can choose to move the overlapping picture over.

Experiment with different types of gradients to get different shapes of blends and different effects.

Aother way to blend an image into another image is to use the feather command. Here are the two images I'm going to use:

Put the two images you want to blend together in one window, one picture overlapping the other. Make a selction with the marquee tool and select the edge of the overlapping edge of the top image. You're selection should look something like this:

Now go to Select > Feather. Set the radius you want to feather the selection at. I chose about 20. Click ok.

It seems like nothing has changed, but with the selection still active hit the delete key. And this is my final result:

If the blend takes away too much of the image or too little, simply undo the deletion and the feathering then try again with a different radius. You can experiment using different slection marquees for different shapes of blends.

Tutorials

Wed, 23 Mar 2005 22:46:47 GMT

I've got 3 tutorials for you in this post, all showing you how to get rid of backgrounds of images or extract images from background so you can place them on a different background. Two methods use masking, one method uses the Extract filter. These were designed using Adobe Photoshop CS, but I know someof the methods used here are available in earlier versions of PS. This is image heavy.

I'm going to show you a variety of ways you can isolate one part of an image to give it a different background.

Masking can be used to erase parts of a layer to reveal the layer beneath or a transparent background without actually losing the parts that are erased. Until a layer mask is applied a mask is completely reversible. This is the image I'll be working with first:

The quick mask tool can be found on the layers palette. It's the box with the circle in it.

Once in quick mask mode you can switch back and forth between the image and the mask by clicking on either one in the layers palette. The mask is represented by a black and white image linked to the layer the mask is on as seen in the layers palette. Right clicking on the mask image will open up the mask sub-menu.

Once you are in masking mode, set the foreground color to black and use the brush tool to "erase" the parts of the image where you want to reveal the layer beneath. If you make a mistake, simply change the foreground color to white and paint back over the mistake to paint back in the image.

You can use different brushes, varying brush opacities and fills, different brush blending modes (though they don't seem to do too much), and shades of gray to achieve interesting
effects.

When you're done, you can choose to apply the layer mask or leave it in case you want to change it later.

Then you can add a background or simply add a fill layer. Do whatever you want.

You'll notive that the edges don't look so good. I'm going to show you some other methods to extract an image with losing detail on the edges.

Here is the image I'll be working with:

I want to get rid of the plain background so I can add a more interesting background. I'm going to use the Extract command. It can be found under Filter > Extract. (Note: I know the Extract command is in PS7, and I believe it's in the filter menu, but I think it might be in earlier versions of PS, too, but under the Image menu. Look around for it.) The Extract command opens up a new window. In the middle of the window is the image, to the right are the options, and on the left are the tools.

First select the top tool, which is the edge highlighter. By default the color is set to green; you can change it with the options on the right side if you want. Select an apporpriate brush size (smaller is better, especially for detailes). Begin highlighting the edges of the object you wish to extract from the rest of the picture (or objects if there are more than one). Make sure the highlight overlaps the background and the edge of the object. You need to be very precise and have the highlight barely overlap the object otherwise parts of the object will be erased, too. Once you have the object completely highlighted you can use the fill tool to fill in the object to be extracted.

If you do a poor job of highlighting as pictured below:

This is what will happen:

See how parts of her chin have been erased? So be very neat. You can always hit control-z if you make a mistake, and it will undo it.

And here's my final result with a background added:

Here's what the image would have looked like if I had used the magic wand tool instead:

The extract command can work very well, but it's easy to lose small details like individual strands of hair with it. For more recise masking you can use the pen tool and convert the path to a selction and use it as a mask, but that can take a lot of time. If you're good at the pen tool give it a go. Another less time consuming method is to use Alpha channels.

When choosing an image for this method you definitely want to use an image where there's pretty good contrast between the background and the object and less busy backgrounds are better. I chose an image of Kelly Clarkson with lots of little strands of hair that I'd love to preserve when extracting her from the background.

First off, go to the channels palette. You'll notice that there are 4 channels there: RBG, red, green, and blue. The RGB channel is a composite channel of all three colors and shows the image as it's supposed to be. The other three channels show each color. One thing you might want to know is that when you click on each color channel it will display in gray unless you go to Edit > Preferences > Display and Cursors and then check the box next to color channels in color.

Now you want to cliick on each different channel, and see which one has the most contrast. My green channel seemed to have the most contrast.

Now decide which channel is most different from the one with the most contrast. I decided on red since you use blue to make green.

Go to Image > Calculations. A dialog window opens up. In the first section, set the channel to the channel with the most contrast, in my case green. Then in the second section set the channel to the most different channel, so I set mine to red. Now play around with inverting the channels and changing the blending modes and opacity until you get the object white and the backiground black with the greatest amount of contrast. I inverted both layers and set the blending mode to color dodge at 100% opacity. Click ok when you are done.

This creates a new Alpha channel. Here's mine:

It's almost ready to be used as a mask but not yet. Next I took a hard round brush, set the foreground color to white, and painted over the black areas on Kelly. Be careful when doing the hair that you don't color white black areas that are actually gaps between strands of hair. Once I was done I turned up the contrast a little to make the black of the background a little darker and get rid of any gray patches. Don't turn up the contrast too much or you'll make the edges look jagged.

Now I'm ready to make a mask out of the channel. I ctrl-clicked on the channel to make a selection for the mask. Then I switched to the layers palette and clicked on the quick mask button. It masked out the background and now I have Kelly all by herself with her hair intact. If you notive some discoloration around the edges where a little bit of the background has remained, set the foreground color to the color of the surrounding pixels, choose the brush tool and set the blending mode of the brush tool to color, then color over the areas of discoloration (Note: make sure the layer is selected when you do this, NOT the mask). If you notice any mistakes in the mask, with the mask selected use white to color back in the picture or black to erase it. My final result was with a background added was (I just noticed a mistake but I'm too lazy to go fix it; hopefully you won't notice it :P) :

I don't think I could have chosen a harder picture for this from the pictures on my computer >_>

Ask questions if you don't understand anything. I hope these help some people :) If there are any mistakes let me know, and I'll fix them.

Blending Modes Tutorial

Wed, 16 Mar 2005 15:40:12 GMT

Here is a tutorial explaining exactly how each blending mode in Adobe Photoshop CS works. It by no means shows everything you can do with each blending mode.

Normal is the default blending mode. Changing the opacity fades the intensity of the image by averaging the color pixels of the layer with the value of the pixels below.

Here is the image we're working with set at Normal.

Here is the image at an opacity of 50%. The underlying image is a neutral gray.

Dissolve combines the blend layer with the layer underneath using a random pixel pattern. There is no change at 100% opacity. Reduce the opacity to see the change.

The opacity here is at 70%.

The darken blend mode works like this: if the blend color is darker than the base color then it applies the blend color, meaning that all colors lighter than the base color become the base color. Like so:

The colors of the blending layer darker than the base layer have been applied to the base layer, but where the colors of the blending layer were lighter than the base layer the color of the base layer has replaced them.

The mulltiply effect multiplies the base by the blend pixel values and produces a darker color, except where the blend color is white.

Color Burn darkens the image by using the blend color. The darker the color, the more pronounced the effect. Blending with white has no effect.

In this case I've used a gradient to overlay the image and set it color burn. I'm going to keep using this gradient on the next examples because it will provide more dramatic effects than using the image itself over the gray base.

Linear Burn produces a more pronounced darkening effect than multiply or color burn. Linear blending will clip the darker pixels, making them black. White has no effect.

Lighten applies the base color if the blend color is lighter than the base color..

Screen multiplies the inverse of the blend and base pixel values together and makes a lighter color except where the blend color is black.

Color Dodge brightens the image using the blend color. The brighter the color the more extravagant the effect. Black has no effect.

Linear Dodge does the opposite of the linear burn. It produces a stronger lightening effect than screen or lighten. It will clip the lighter pixel values making them white. Black has no effect.

Overlay superimposes the blend image on the base image. It multiplies or screens the colors depending on the base image. It also reserves the highlights and shadows of the base image. Blending with 50% gray has no effect.

Soft light can darken or lighten the colors depending on the base color. It is more gentle than overlay. Blending with 50% gray has no effect.

Hard light multiplies or screens the colors depending on the base color. It's more pronounced than overlay. Blending with 50% gray has no effect.

Vivid light applies color dodge or color burn depending on the base color. It's tronger than hard light. Blending with 50% gray has no effect.

Linear Light applies linear dodge or linear burn depending on the base color. It is stronger than vivid light. Blending with 50% gray has no effect.

Pin Light applies lighten to light colors and darken to dark colors. It's stronger than soft light. Blending with 50% gray has no effect.

Hard mix produces a posterized image of up to 8 colors: red, green, blue, cyan, magenta, yellow, black, and white. The blend color is the product of the base color and the luminosity of the blend layer.

Difference either subtracts the base color from the blending color or subtracts the blending color from the base color depending on which has the highest brightness value. 100% white will invert the base layer, black value has no effect, and values in between partially invert the base. Duplicating a background image and applying difference at 100% produces a black image. Dramatic changes can be achieved at different opacities.

Exclusion is a muted variant of difference. White will invert the base.

The exclusion layer is one of the more useful blending modes, though. Filling a layer with a dark color can produce some nice results. Dark blue, for instance, produces a muted effect that looks very nice on icons.

Using light colors such as pastels always results in an inverted image, but if you fill a layer with a pastel color and set it to exclusion then fill another layer above that with a different pastel and set it to difference you can get an effect such as this:

Hue preserves the luminance and saturation of the base color, replacing the hue with the hue of the blending pixels.

Saturation preserves the luminance and the hue of the base, replacing the saturation with the saturation of the blending pixels

Color preserves the luminance of the base, and replaces the hue and the saturation with the hue and saturation values of the blending pixels.

Luminosity preserves the hue and the saturation of the base, and applies the luminance of the blending pixels.

Wed, 16 Mar 2005 10:45:17 GMT

My final tutorial for the day. Image heavy. Designed for Adobe Photoshop CS.

Applying a soft, dreamy effect to icons can really set the mood, and there is more than one way to do it. Using the levels and the guassian blur is an effective and well known way to do it, but I find that it doesn’t work on all images, and sometimes the guassian blur takes away too much detail for my liking. I’m going to show you an alternative method to do this without losing too much detail. I think a picture of Elizabeth from Pirates of the Caribbean will work well for this tutorial. crumblingwalls made the same sort of tutorial using a different method, and also used a picture of Elizabeth. You should check that tutorial out as well; it’s a good one.

First, open your image, then crop and resize to your liking.

If the background layer has a padlock on it, double click it in the layers palette to make it editable, then duplicate it. Set the duplicate layer to soft light. This may make the lighting and the colors a little harsh, but we’ll be fixing that.

Now select the background layer and go to Filter> Blur > Guassian Blur. Choose a high radius so that the image is blurred almost beyond recognition. I chose 25.

That won’t do at all, so go to Edit > Fade. Set the mode to Screen. Adjust the opacity if you like, but I chose not to. That gives us some good lighting for the image making it glow, but we’re not done yet.

Now select the duplicate layer. Go to Filter > Blur > Guassian Blur. Choose a high radius to make the image look soft and dreamy. I chose 31.

Now we have a soft, dreamy image without losing too much detail.

This method won’t work for all images. You have to start out with the right lighting, preferably an image with darker lighting and not many highlights. Also, sometimes lowering the radius when doing the guassian blur on the duplicate layer can actually add glow to the image.

Wed, 16 Mar 2005 10:34:13 GMT

6th in my tutorials series. Image heavy. Designed for Adobe Photoshop CS.

Please note that this tutorial has been revised. The earlier edition had a really cool glow effect using channels, but as someone was kind enough to point out to me, formats such as JPEG and PNG were discarding the channel information, resulting in the loss of the glow effect, so I've changed it a bit to show a different way to achieve glow that should save under all formats. Props go to maggieroofus for pointing out the error.

An interesting effect you might like to use is an infrared effect. This effect can be especially beautiful on plants because plants reflect infrared light quite splendidly. I’m going to show you how to take a shot of a forest and make it look magical.

Open a color image, crop, and resize. I chose a picture of a forest scene.

Now add a Channel Mixer Adjustment Layer.

Infrared light gives plants a sort of glow as they reflect it so we’re going to make the green leaves of our forest glow. We want the green of the image to be as bright as possible so move the green slider all the way up to 200. To balance the picture and make the sliders equal 100 we’re going to have to move the blue and red sliders into the negative to equal –100. Adjust them to your liking so long as they both equal –100. Press ok.

Now go to the channels palette.

To add a glow effect to this you can duplicate the background layer, but make sure to keep it under the adjustment layer, set it to the blending mode of your choice. I chose screen. Then go to Filter> Blur> Guassian Blur and blur it. You can fade the blur by going to Edit> Fade and fade it to your liking, even change the mode. Also, see the comments below for another method proposed by the user who pointed out the error in the original entry. And yet another method has been proposed by damnskippytoo that works great. Thanks for the help, both of you!

Here's my final result without the duplicated layer. A magical forest.

Wed, 16 Mar 2005 10:22:17 GMT

My 5th tutorial. Image heavy. Designed for Adobe Photoshop CS.

A neat effect to have on grayscale image to accentuate a certain part of the image is to have the part you want the focus on in color and the rest of the image in grayscale. If your working with an originally grayscale image this is going to involve adding the color freshly yourself, but it your working with an image that you're converting to grayscale yourself it’s quite easy to do.

Take your color image, crop and resize. I chose an image of Kelly Clarkson. In the original of this image she's wearing a cream colored shirt, but someone must have recolored this copy to give her a violet shirt. It really stands out so I thought it was perfect for this tutorial.

Add either a hue/saturation adjustment layer and lower the saturation to –100 or add a channel mixer adjustment layer. I chose the channel mixer adjustment layer.

I checked the monochrome box and set the colors to my liking to get the contrast I wanted.

Now make sure the adjustment layer is selected. Select the brush tool. Set the foreground layer to black. Choose a tip. Now begin painting over the area where you want the color to see through. You’re applying a layer mask to the adjustment layer. You will NOT need to select quick mask mode to do this; adjustment layers automatically come with layer masks. Zoom in or use a smaller brush if you need to.

If you make a mistake, simply change the foreground color to white and paint back over the mistake to fix it.

Here's my final result:

Wed, 16 Mar 2005 10:10:05 GMT

My 4th tutorial. Image heavy. For Adobe Photoshop CS.

When applying color to a grayscale image there’s an easy method to create a two toned effect so that the image isn’t simply monochromatic. This is called split toning in printing.

Take the grayscale image you wish to add color to; crop and resize if necessary. I chose a picture of Zhang Ziyi that I converted to grayscale using the Channel Mixer.

Make sure the image is in RGB mode. Image> Mode> RGB.

Now create a Color Balance Adjustment Layer.

Click on the shadow button, then adjust the color of the shadows to your liking. Do the same with the midtones. Leave the highlights alone. Keep the preserve luminosity button checked to maintain a constant lightness in the image. I set the shadows to –23, 0, and 33 and the midtones to -31, 0 and +21.

I wanted the pool of water she's in to be blue, so my first adjustment layer was blue.

Now create a new Color Balance adjustment layer on top of the other. Adjust the midtones to the second color you want, and do the same with the highlights. Leave the shadows alone. I set the midtones to +75, -12, and –22. I set the highlights to +12, -4, and -23

You’ll notice that this completely covers up the first adjustment layer you made. To fix this we’re going to use the Blending Options.

Select the top adjustment layer, which should be the second one you made, then go to the Layers palette sub-menu and select Blending Options. In the default view, look at the bottom of the dialog at the section labeled “Blend if” with a drop down box set to gray. There are two sliders labeled “On this layer” and “Underlying Layer.”

Focus on the “On this layer” slider. Alt-click on the black slider to divide it in half. Drag one half to the right to blend shadows of the active adjustment layer with the adjustment layer below. Drag the second half to make any more adjustments. Adjust both halves of the black slider until you get the split tone affect you want.

Here's my final image:

Wed, 16 Mar 2005 09:49:30 GMT

Third in my tutorial series. Image heavy. The actress features in this tutorial is wearing lingirie, nothing expose, consider yourself warned. Designed for Adoeb Photoshop CS.

Often people convert images to grayscale just so they can colorize them as a single color. This is usually done by adding different gradients and color layers to the image in different blending modes. But a simple way to colorize an image before adding any other images is to use the color balance feature. This feature can be accessed by either going to Images> Adjustments> Color Balance or by adding a Color Balance Adjustment Layer. We’re going to use an adjustment layer in this tutorial.

First open your image.Crop the image and resize it if you like. If it isn’t a grayscale image, convert it to grayscale using the method you like best. I'm using a picture of actress Elizabeth Hurley.

Now, make sure the Mode under Image is set to RGB.

Now, add a Color Balance Adjustment Layer. Adjust the midtones, shadows, and highlights until you get the color you want. It’s as easy as that. And since it’s an adjustment layer you can go back and edit it later if you change your mind or just to make an adjustment.

And here's our final image. You can make your results more dramatic than I made mine.

Wed, 16 Mar 2005 09:36:14 GMT

This is the second in my series of tutorials. Once again, image heavy. Designed for Adobe Photoshop CS.

If you want your grayscale images to have more contrast and look more interesting than images that have simply been desaturated, which tend to look a bit flat, there are other ways you can do it. My favorite is the channel mixer, but if you find using the channel mixer a bit daunting, there is another way to do it.

First, open the color image you wish to convert to grayscale. Crop and resize to your liking. I chose an image of Japanese singer Ayumi Hamasaki.

Now go to the layers palette and create a new Adjustment Layer. Choose Hue/Saturation.

In the dialog box that opens up slide the saturation slider all the way down to –100. Press ok. This effectively desaturates the image, but also destroys the contrast and the highlights. But we can fix that.

Here is the image simply desaturated.

It looks really flat to me. I'd like to add a little contrast to make it look more interesting.

Now choose to create another hue/saturation adjustment layer between the background and the first adjustment layer. Don’t make any changes to the hue or the saturation. Just click ok.

Now set the blending mode of the new adjustment layer to overlay.

The great thing about using adjustment layers instead of doing adjustments to your images through the other menus is that adjustment layers are editable. You can go back and edit them at any time. So double click on the second adjustment layer, the one set to overlay. When the dialog opens, select a color in the Edit drop down box, then adjust the Hue, Saturation, and Lightness to get the contrast of your liking. Do the same with the other colors until you get the contrast to your liking. I adjusted +79 hue, + 7 saturation, +11 lightness on red, and +35 hue, - 5 Saturation, and – 53 lightness on yellow to get the contrast I wanted.

To understand what your doing, turn off the top adjustment layer. You’ll probably notice that the colors in your image are all out of whack. This is from the adjustments you’ve made to the second adjustment layer. The first adjustment layer is the layer that grayscales the image.

Here is our final image.

This method is a much more subtle method than simply turning up the contrast.

Tutorials

Wed, 16 Mar 2005 09:09:23 GMT

I've got several tutorials for you, mainly working with grayscale images. This is the first in the series. It's image heavy. The model featured in this tutorial is wearing lingerie, though nothing is exposed, so consider yourself warned. This tutorial was designed for Adobe Photoshop CS. I don't know whether it translates to earlier versions of Photohop.

Grayscale images can be just as interesting as color images, and can really give a mood to an icon. I’m going to show you a method of taking a color image and converting it to gray scale without losing the contrast in the image.

First, open your image, crop and resize if necessary. I chose an image of Adriana Lima.

The most common method of converting an image to grayscale used is to go to Image> Adjustments> Desaturate. This method usually results in a rather flat-looking grayscale image. This is because when Photoshop converts a color image to a grayscale the image is converted using 60% green, 30% red, and 10% blue.

I ddin't like this because her skin looks too dark. She has dark skin which is the reason it looks so dark in the grayscale, but it looks so dark it's diffcult to see her face.

Another method to convert a color image to grayscale is to simply go to Image> Mode> Grayscale. A dialog menu will popup asking if you want to discard the color information. Clicking yes will result in the image being converted to grayscale. When compared with the desaturation method, the highlights, midtones, and shadows in the image looked different.

That is way too dark for my liking.

I don’t like either method. They basically destroy a lot of highlights and ruin the contrast. My favorite method of converting an image to grayscale is to use the Channel Mixer. The Channel Mixer can be accessed by going to Image> Adjustments> Channel Mixer.

To grayscale the image, the monochrome button at the bottom must be checked. Adjust the green, red, and blue sliders until you get the contrast and highlights that you want. In order for the image to look right, the three sliders added up must equal 100. Adjust the constant slider to adjust the brightness. I chose +96 red, +30 green, -26 blue. And you get an image that has better contrast and lighting than an image that has been simply desaturated.

Mon, 14 Mar 2005 07:09:27 GMT

MY host is down right now so my icons won't be working on the later posts.

Icons

Sun, 13 Mar 2005 03:09:02 GMT

Just a few this time.

[x] Zhang Ziyi
[x] Kelly Clarkson
[x] Maggie Grace
[x] Emilie de Ravin

Samples:

*Note: A couple of these icons look like icons made by teh_indy, which is because she was my inspiration. So props go to her for the idea behind several of these icons.

1. Comment
2. Credit
3. No hotlinking
4. Enjoy :)

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4. 5. 6.
7. 8. 9.
10.

Mon, 07 Mar 2005 02:20:30 GMT

I fixed all of the icons in (this post) so if you go check it out they should be working again. There are one or two new icons that I snuck in as well.

New icons

Tue, 01 Mar 2005 04:30:59 GMT

[x] Harry Potter
[x] Kelly Clarkson
[x] Angelina Jolie
[x] Liv Tyler
[x] Zhang Ziyi

Examples:

1. Comment
2. Credit.
3. Enjoy

1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
7. 8. 9.
10. 11. 12.

New icons

Mon, 21 Feb 2005 05:03:47 GMT

[x] Adriana Lima
[x] Angelina Jolie
[x] Ayumi Hamasaki
[x] Elizabeth Hurley
[x] Emma Watson
[x] Harry Potter
[x] Kill Bill
[x] The Land Before Time
[x] The Lord of the Rings
[x] Alien Vs. Predator
[x] Uma Thurman
[x] Zhang Ziyi

As always, comment, credit, and enjoy :)

Samples:

Note: This post contains mostly icons that have been posted on this journal before, but due to Photobucket's bandwidth restrictions and my lack of money, I'm moving them to another server before my bandwidth totally dies, so if you've visited this journal before, expect to see some old icons in this post, though there are new icons as well.

1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
7. 8. 9.
10. 11. 12.
13. 14. 15.
16. 17. 18.
19. 20. 21.
22. 23. 24
25. 26. 27.
28. 29. 30.
31. 32. 33.
34. 35. 36.
37. 38. 39.

New icons

Sun, 13 Feb 2005 05:45:05 GMT

[x] HarryPotter
[x] The Land Before Time
[x] Angelina Jolie
[x] Ayumi Hamasaki
[x] Uma Thurman
[x] Zhang Ziyi

1. Comment
2. Credit
3. No hotlinking

1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
7. 8. 9.
10. 11. 12.
13. 14. 15.

Tue, 08 Feb 2005 03:21:08 GMT

[x] Harry Potter
[x] LOTR
[x] Uma Thurman
[x] Emma Watson
[x] Alien vs. Predator

1. Comment.
2. Credit.
3. No hotlinking.

Enjoy!

1. 2. 3.
4. 5. 6.
7. 8. 9.
10. 11. 12.
13. 14.

Sat, 29 Jan 2005 07:57:53 GMT

3 icons from Kill Bill Vol 2

1. 2. 3.

Thu, 27 Jan 2005 11:15:10 GMT

Here are my icons to date.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.
6. 7. 8. 9. 10.
11. 12. 13. 14. 15.
16. 17. 18. 19. 20.
21. 22. 23.

Wed, 12 Jan 2005 22:25:42 GMT

Sorry, nothing here yet. I haven't had the time to move my stuff over. Will do it soon.